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Parsnip

Pastinaca sativa

INTRODUCTION

Parsnips, originating in Eurasia, have been in cultivation for centuries and today are an essential part of the winter plot been incredibly hardy and a great accompaniment to any wintertime roast dinner.

They are a pretty straightforward crop to grow, even for beginners, but attention to detail is important. Once established they will take care of themselves in the ground well into the following year. If left in the soil until the following year, the flowers produced are almost as satisfying as the vegetable and useful for attracting bees into the garden.

Soil Preparation

Parsnips are a relatively straightforward crop to grow but good soil preparation is essential for the best results.

The growing site should be in a sunny position with organic material added well in advance of sowing, like most root crops, Parsnips dislike freshly manured soil.

The ground should be light, fertile, free-draining and stone free. Heavy clay soils are not ideal.

Sowing & Planting

Parsnip seed is notoriously short-lived, always use fresh seed. 

Sowing can begin during March, weather permitting as Parsnips will not germinate in cold soil. It is better to wait until late spring when soil temperatures are above 10c. As an alternative, cover soil with cloches.

Prepare the seedbed by removing any weed from the soil and rake level to a fine tilth.

Sowing should always be directly into growing position as Parsnips dislike being transplanted.

Carefully take out a drill (shallow groove) and sow seed thinly. Cover seed to a depth of 1cm, Parsnip seed will not germinate if sown too deeply. Leave 30cm (12inches) between rows.

Water in well with a watering can with rose, try not to disturb the newly sown seed. Keep moist until seed has germinated which will take about 21 days and can be erratic.

Because of slow germination, intercropping with a quick-growing subject such as Radish is possible. 

Growing & General Cultivation

When the Parsnip seedlings are large enough to handle, thin out to about 15cm (6 inches) to enable roots to reach their full potential. Closer thinning will result in smaller roots. Thinning can be carried out in two stages several weeks apart.

Keep growing area weed-free but take care not to damage roots when hoeing.

Keep watering to a minimum as Parsnips do not like to be overly wet but roots may crack if allowed to dry out completely. Feeding should not be necessary.

Pests & Diseases

Parsnip Canker can affect your crop resulting in reddish/brown rot on the roots. Grow canker-resistant varieties such as Gladiator or White Gem.

Carrot root fly can also affect Parsnips by laying its eggs on the plants and the larvae then burrow into the roots.

There is no chemical control available to the home gardener but several precautions can be taken:

Practise crop rotation, don't grow Parsnips where they were grown last year.

Thin plants in the evening or during wet weather when the carrot root fly is less active. If you have managed to sow thinly enough, don't thin.

Sow during the summer when most egg-laying activity is over.

Cover growing crops with fine mesh or fleece.

Forked Parsnips can be a problem if grown on heavy or stony soils. This causes what looks like several roots to become morphed into one. They are difficult to peel and prepare in the kitchen but are entirely suitable for eating.

Avoid growing in stony soil or on freshly manured sites.

Harvesting

Parsnips can be harvested from autumn onwards depending on sowing dates. The root becomes sweeter after being exposed to frost.

Lift with a fork as required taking care not to damage roots that can be as long as 30cm or more.

Parsnips are always at their best when harvested fresh and will sit happily in the ground throughout the winter into the following spring until required.

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